Conclusion for Chapter Three

In this chapter, I have discussed my body of work and I am very pleased with the outcome. In creating this body of work I have faced many challenging's and one of the biggest challenges has to do with being stuck on one idea and not allowing myself to think outside of the box. With my jewellery pieces that I have made I'm happy to say that I can see the growth/development from the first piece of jewellery I made to the very last. Hence I take b-tech as a foundation phase of discovering your style and interest in jewellery. I also took it as a matter of developing your techniques and finding your strongest field in manufacturing and designing jewellery. I think I have an idea of what I want to focus on in the future and that is looking more into fashion. I want to find a fashion field that excites me the most with relevant elements and aspects that I can use to create fashion jewellery.

Introduction to Chapter Three

In this chapter, I will discuss how I  have used Isishweshwe fabric as inspiration to create contemporary jewellery.  I have used patterns, colours, and texture from the fabric and I will discuss how I have incorporated these aspects in my work. I have shown the work of other jewellers and fashion designers in chapter two to give an overview of the style of work that I produced in this chapter, with specific elements taken from their work. Then I will discuss the design process and the techniques I have used and also show the development through prototypes.

Isishweshwe and Ankara fabrics worn in a traditional ceremony

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M., (2019). Isishweshwe and Ankara garments.

This is a picture of me and the bride wearing Isishweshwe and Ankara fabrics. It was a traditional ceremony called Umembeso were the groom buys gifts(blankets) for the brides family and they respectfully dress their bride as a sign of how she should dress when traditional ceremonies take place in the groom's house.

Anglo Plat Prototype

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M., (2019). Silver Earrings.

This is a pair of silver earrings with cubic zircon set in a tube setting, prototype for the Anglo Platinum Competition. The theme was Your Love Has Gone Platinum and we had to design any piece of jewellery that relates with your b-tech topic. I decided to work with a motif called the CD for the patterns punched on the metal, I drew different designs to choose from then I chose the one that works out nicely. When I read the brief I knew exactly what I would use as my reference because early on this year I attended a traditional ceremony called Umembeso and I tend to interpret umembeso as the start of all the good things. Where big commitments are made and where your relationship starts to blossom.
I had used the folded element from the dress worn by the bride and I also abstract few elements from the head-wrap, how it forms those curves at the edges and the whole three-dimensional form the head-wrap create. I had to test how the folding was going to work with copper first before making the prototype, and I was very happy with the results, I had to make sure I used a thin plate so I can get nice curves. This pair of earrings represent all the struggles and all the good times you get in a relationship before the commitment. I wanted to make something that withholds the good and the bad in one but with a beautiful look on the outside.

Punched Disks

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M., (2018). Silver and Brass disks.

This was the first exploration I did for my b-tech, punched and drilled silver and brass disks. Since I wanted to work with patterns, colours and texture from isishweshwe fabric, I thought of how I could transfer patterns from the fabric into metal. Then I came up with an idea to use punching and drilling as a technique to use for this exploration. I started off by using a thick plate for the disks and I would use a divider to mark where to drill and punch. The first disk didn't work out because I was still trying to figure out how to space the holes evenly and trying to get familiar with the punching technique.

In disk two and three I decided to use different sized drill bits and I also made my plate slightly bigger to allow the pattern to spread out evenly. I made the fourth disk just to see how different metals react to punching and drilling.

Twirling Punched Earrings

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M., (2018). Twirling Punched Earrings. Silver.

These are silver twirling earrings, a prototype for the Anglo Platinum 2018 competition themed: Blessings of Love. I had to design a pair of earrings that fit with my b-tech topic and also incorporate the theme given. I had been exploring and working with punching and I found a perfect reference in Isishweshwe fabric motifs which is called the guinea fowl spots(impangele) which I thought fitted perfectly with the theme. Guinea fowl spots(impangele) are black and white spots which I would say to me they represent the ups and downs in a relationship.

I had used the pattern template from the previous test pieces and prototypes but I decided to punch the patterns in different directions to represent the spots and the different stages you get in a relationship. The patterns punched in a very thin plate and I would allow the punch to go through the plate to allow the metal to form fluted edges. If you put the earrings together the hooks form a circular shape which symbolizes infinity. I made these earrings because I wanted to show different stages in a relationship using punching and patterns from Isishweshwe to give visual aspects of how fabric can be used in another medium.

Punched Disks Earrings

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M., (2018). Silver Punched Earrings.

This was the first pair of silver earrings I made for my b-tech after having a difficult time finding the starting point for my work. I started with four test pieces where I had done different variations of punching, where I decided to draw the pattern in Rhino 3D first before punching it out. I started by punching and drilling to indicate different colours in the patterns and I would use a steel block and masking tape to hold the disk in place. I noticed that the metal wasn't doing what I was hoping to get, which was more of a visual look of a fabric. Then I was advised by my lecturer to use a wood block instead of a steel block just to explore different ways and see how the metal reacts.

I wasn't really pleased with the outcome of these earrings because they were flat they didn't have any three-dimensional feel or look at all, but I was happy at how the punching looked like and you could actually see the flow of the patterns. This motivated me to look into a three-dimensional form and see how I can incorporate it in my work. 

Fabric Earrings

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M., (2019). Copper and Silver Earrings.

This is a pair of copper and silver earrings also inspired by the and visual aspects in Nkosi's garments collection. When I made this pair of earrings I had an idea of how I can use the actual fabric in my jewellery or how I can make my jewellery a replica of isishweshwe fabric.

I had used a thin copper plate and a piece of cloth for roll-milling to get the texture then I used my hands and a pair of pliers here and there to get that folded look. The concept derived from the collar necklace I made as a statement piece with different aspects abstracted from Nkosi's garments. The reason why I made this pair of earrings because I wanted to find different ways to capture the beauty of the fabric through the visual aspects found in fashion or used in fashion.

The Fluted Collection

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M. (2019). Fluted Earrings.

Figure 2- Nkabinde, M., (2019). Silver Fluted Pendant.

This is a silver fluted collection, inspired by the Fluted Swaddle. For this pendant, I had used the concept of folding and interlaced technique from the Platinum(finalist) earrings I made. Which had a punched out pattern on them but for this collection I wanted the overall shape to dominate more and not have patterns to interfere with the design. Firstly I start by bending the small S- shapes before interlacing them together without soldering to create this three-dimensional form, which I then soldered the thick wire to make a pendant and I added copper hooks for the earrings.

The reason why I made this collection because I wanted to capture the simplicity and the cleanness of the edges you get in fashion garments. I also wanted to capture the different folds and curves you get in the fabric when it is used as a headwrap. 

Punched out disks with melted beads

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M,. (2018). Silver with glass beads disks.

These are silver punched disks with melted glass beads. Inspired by Hombisa's milky way technique. I wanted to add colour in my jewellery then I thought of how I could use the concept of the milky way technique in my own style, that is when I discovered the beads melting technique. I used a very thin plate, with patterns punched out using a pattern template I drew in rhino. Then the hard part comes where I have to place each bead in the punched out holes, making sure they are in the right place before I heat it up. It takes some time before the beads melt completely and they show a nice colour transformation when the metal is hot and when it has cooled down.

The reason why I had done this experiment because I wanted to find another way of adding colour in my work other than stringing beads on. I really liked the outcome these disks and I didn't want to make any jewellery piece out of it because I wouldn't be able to hold it up against the light to see the beautiful effect it has with the different colour coordination.

Fabric Texture on Copper forms

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M., (2019). Copper and Silver collar necklace.

Figure 2- Nkabinde, M., (2019). Copper and Silver collar necklace.

This is a copper and silver collar necklace inspired by the visual aspects of Nkosi's garments collection. When I mention the visual aspects I'm referring to the layered and three-dimensional forms. When I made this collar necklace I had no idea what the outcome maybe because I didn't plan or design this necklace. I just thought of how I could use the actual fabric in my jewellery other than having a piece of fabric stuck somewhere.
I decided to use a thin copper plate so I can be able to fold it in a form of how the tailors fold their fabrics. Then I decided to use the actual isishweshwe fabric to get the texture into copper by using the roll-milling technique. Folding the piece of copper was a bit challenging because I had to make sure that is it folded equally, the spaces in between are even. I ended up not getting the even folds, which made me realise that I am working with a different medium which is metal and I won't get the exact result as you do with fabric. It will take lots of practice to get it right but I am happy with the result because I've learnt that you cant approach things the same way as other people are doing it you might have to find your own approach to make something work.

Anglo Plat 2019

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M., (2019). Fluted Swaddle. Platinum Earrings.

These are platinum earrings with cubic zirconia set in a tube setting, designed for the Anglo Platinum Competition 2019. Which I was selected to be one of the finalists. I had to change the metal thickness only from the silver prototype to make sure that I had enough metal to work with. I really enjoyed this project because we were given a  theme: Your Love Has Gone Platinum which I think I interpreted it in an understandable way that relates to my work.

Here is the free writing I had to do that goes with my piece:

These beautiful earrings were inspired by Isishweshwe fabric. “It is a printed dyed cotton fabric widely used for traditional South African clothing.” I have taken patterns from this fabric to design a simple yet meaningful pair of earrings. It was uniquely handcrafted for a young man named Nkanyiso that intends to give these earrings as a gift for his beautiful soon to be wife Senhle, on their special day called Umembeso. It is when the groom’s family buy gifts for the bride’s family and the bride does the same.

Umembeso is a symbol of a remarkable and meaningful journey that Nkanyiso and Senhle are about to take. It is a way of showing mutual respect and commitment to each other. During this ceremony, the family dresses the bride in a respective way that they would want her to look in the future.

Nkanyiso and Senhle are both young and modern but they stick to traditions that they learned growing up. They have been living together and planning this ceremony, then Nkanyiso thought of how he could bring the whole concept of a head wrap into something elegant yet a statement that his wife can wear on her big day or any other day. A headwrap is a sign of respect to her in-laws and husband therefore, I have used the idea of how the fabric folds and curl as a head wrap into a unique pair of earrings that symbolizes respect, genuine and authentic love.

I have used patterns from the head wrap fabric as my main focus, I decided to punch out patterns that are inspired by Isishweshwe into metal and I have used the concept of the fold-up fabric as an overall pattern to create the swirly and fluted look in the earrings. Platinum is a symbol of everlasting and pure love because it doesn’t tarnish it is always shiny and keeping the spark alive.

Anglo Platinum 2018

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M., (2019). The Seed: Imbewu. Platinum with glass beads.

This is a pair of platinum earrings, designed for the Anglo Platinum Competition(2018). Inspired by the guinea fowl spots(impangele) fabric motif. I wanted to do the melted beads technique which is inspired by Hombisa's milky way technique but due to technique restrictions, I had to change the idea. I then decided to add beads on the edges to add colour and to emphasis the good times in a relationship.

Platinum Prototype in silver

Figure 2- Nkabinde, M.,(2019).  Silver.

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M., (2019). Fabric. 

Figure 1 is an example of the fabric motif I used called CDs, from there I manipulated the motif in a simplest way that will have nice pattern to work with see figure 2&3.

        

          Figure 3- Nkabinde, M., (2019). Silver.

                      

                             Figure 4- Nkabinde, M., (2019). Silver.

Once the pattern is punched out then the metal folding part is done see figure 4&5, making sure you anneal in between to get nice curves.

Figure 5- Nkabinde, M., (2019). Silver.

Copper Disks with Different Pattern Imprints

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M., (2019). Copper and glass beads.

Figure 2- Nkabinde, M., (2019). Copper and glass beads.

Platinum design exploration

These are patterns I've been working with lately, I've decided to work with copper to see if i get the same results as silver and it turned out beautiful with the patterns but i feel like the colours don't pop out nicely in copper. so now i know which metal works beautiful with my melted beads

Colour Arrangement

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M., (2018). Silver with glass beads.

Figure 2- Nkabinde, M., (2018). Silver with glass beads.

In figure 1&2 show the different colour arrangement I am working or I have to choose from.

Rectangular Elements

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M., (2018). Silver with glass beads elements.

These are silver and melted glass beads elements I was planning to use for the Jewellex Competition themed: Retro. This was the first piece I made for my b-tech that didn't work out, I had used a thicker plate for the imprints which made it very difficult for the beads to melt. I also noticed that the actual rectangular shape of the element was not working for this particular technique because the beads wouldn't stay in place and they started cracking when i was joining the two pieces together to from that three dimensional form. I had been working with two different colour arrangement but I chose the one in figure 1 because I thought it dominated more then the other one.

What I learnt from this project is that you can't apply the same technique to different shapes because they differ in reactions.

Pattern Imprints

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M., (2018). Silver strips.

Figure 2- Nkabinde, M., (2018). Silver strips

Figure 1&2 shows how I imprint the patterns from paper to metal.

Experiment for Jewellex earrings design

Playing with my torch and getting beautiful colour transformation in figure 1 the metal is still hot then in figure 2 it has cools down leaving that glossy look at the top. 

Figure 1- Nkabinde, M., (2018). Silver disks with melted beads.

Figure 2- Nkabinde, M., (2018). Silver disks with melted beads.